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Arshile Gorky와 Jackson Pollock의 Painting이 현대의상 직물 문양에 미친 영향
The Influence of Arshile Gorky's & Jackson Pollock's Painting on Modern Fashion

정흥숙   (중앙대학교 가정대학 의류학과UU0001197  );
  • 초록

    Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.


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  • 정흥숙 (20)

    1. 1989 "조형분야와 복식에 나타난 예술양식의 유사성에 관한 연구 ($1893{\sim}1930$)" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 13 (): 160~167    
    2. 1991 "회화양식이 의상의 조형성에 미친 영향(I)" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 16 (): 187~199    
    3. 1991 "여성해방운동이 서양복식에 미친 영향에 관한 연구($1850\~1950$)" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 15 (3): 239~250    
    4. 1992 "현대의상 직물 문양에 조명된 신인상주의 색채 표현에 관한 연구 -1987년부터 1991년까지-" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 16 (3): 209~221    
    5. 1992 "현대 의상에 조명된 인상주의 색채의 영향 - 1980년대 후반부터 1990년대초까지 -" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 16 (1): 97~110    
    6. 1994 "현대 의상에 표현된 인상주의 회화 양식" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 18 (1): 65~80    
    7. 1995 "Post-modern 복식의 복고성에 관한 연구-Baroque 복식의 loop와 tassel을 중심으로-" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 25 (): 71~83    
    8. 1995 "현대복식에 응용된 초현실주의적 표현방법 고찰(I) -1989~1994년 복식을 중심으로-" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 19 (2): 380~392    
    9. 1997 "포스트모던 패션에 표현된 페미니즘 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 35 (): 231~252    
    10. 1998 "Shakespeare 희곡,"Hamlet"을 위한 무대의상 디자인 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 36 (): 149~165    

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