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17세기 복식디자인화에 관한 연구
A Study on the Fashion Illustration of 17th Century

이순홍    (성신여자대학교 의류학과   ); 황수정    (성신여자대학교 의류학과  );
  • 초록

    Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.


 저자의 다른 논문

  • 이순홍 (34)

    1. 1981 "직물(織物)의 역사적(歷史的) 고찰(考察) - 우리나라의 선직물(線織物)을 중심(中心)으로 -" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 5 (): 65~81    
    2. 1991 "니트웨어의 발달과정과 착용실태에 관한 연구 - 서울시내 거주의 주부와 여대생을 중심으로 -" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 16 (): 149~171    
    3. 1992 "단추와 단추구멍의 변천에 관한 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 18 (): 247~268    
    4. 1994 "니트웨어의 소비자성향 실태 및 업체에 관한 조사연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 23 (): 131~150    
    5. 1996 "남성복의 변화에 관한 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 29 (): 5~22    
    6. 1996 "복색 상징적 의미에 관한연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 30 (): 85~99    
    7. 1996 "르네상수시대의 복식 유형과 그발생배경에 관한연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 30 (): 275~294    
    8. 1996 "미니멀리즘이 현대패션에 미친 영향에 대한 연구" The Research Journal of the Costume Culture = 복식문화연구 4 (3): 427~445    
    9. 1997 "중세유럽의 생활미술과 복식문화에 관한 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 35 (): 17~44    
    10. 1997 "동북아시아 신 문화에 관한 연구-화,해,리를 중심으로-" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 35 (): 135~149    

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