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服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.28, 1996년, pp.239 - 253   피인용횟수: 1

저항패션이 모패션으로 전이된 현상에 관한 연구 -히피풍을 중심으로-
study on the Transfeal Phenomenon of Anti-fashion into Mother-fashion -In the Case of Hippie Look-

박명희    (건국대학교 의상학과  );
  • 초록

    The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.


  • 이 논문을 인용한 문헌 (1)

    1. Jun, Yuh-Sun ; Kim, Young-Sam 2012. "A Study of Dress Characteristics with Respect to Anti-Social Resisting Consciousness - Focus on the Relationship between 18th Century Sans-Culotte and a Hippy Style During the 1960s and 1970s as a Comparative Perspective -" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(6): 112~126     

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  • 박명희 (18)

    1. 1990 "이세이 미야께(Issey Miyake)의 의상에 나타난 형태미와 상징성에 관한 연구" 대한가정학회지 = Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 28 (1): 9~20    
    2. 1995 "건축적인 의상디자인의 기호학적 연구" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 25 (): 215~231    
    3. 1999 "패션에 나타난 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘 연구(硏究) - 1980~90년대(年代) 미국(美國) Vogue지(誌)를 중심(中心)으로 -" 패션비즈니스 = Fashion business 3 (1): 147~158    
    4. 2000 "복식에 표현된 투명성의 이미지" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 50 (2): 111~123    
    5. 2003 "현대 의상에 나타난 유머성" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 53 (5): 33~48    
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    7. 2003 "19세기(世紀) 문화(文化)와 복식(服飾)에 표현(表現)된 복고(復古) - 신고전주의(新古典主義)와 낭만주의(浪漫主義) 여성복(女性服)을 중심(中心)으로 -" 패션비즈니스 = Fashion business 7 (4): 105~120    
    8. 2004 "피부색의 계절에 따른 부위별 차이와 특성 -피부색 지도 설계를 위한 연구 I-" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 54 (7): 79~90    
    9. 2004 "현대패션의 그로테스크젝 특성에 관한 연구-1990년대 이후를 중심으로-" 服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 54 (8): 147~162    
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