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권호별목차 / 소장처보기

H : 소장처정보

T : 목차정보

한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothin... 11건

  1. [국내논문]   철릭에 대한 사회학적 분석   피인용횟수: 1

    이은주 (안동대학 가정학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 319 - 329 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$ l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$ . Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

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  2. [국내논문]   국내 여성기성복 유통실태 분석 -제조업체를 중심으로 -  

    송경숙 (숙명여자대학교 의류학과 ) , 임숙자 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 330 - 338 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The Korean apparel manufacturing industry started to meet domestic demands which had depended on importation in 1950s, growing into one of the export-oriented industries with several Five-Year Economic Development Plans. In spite of the development, inefficient organization of distribution of apparel manufacturing industry which connects production with consumption impedes further development of the industry. This study aims at suggesting desirable distribution system of ladies' apparel, the core of the fashion industry. This researcher interviewed those who are concerned in twenty-eight ladies' apparel manufacturing compaines, analyzing the current state of distribution in the industry and the problems. The results are as follows; 1. Forty-five percent of ladies' apparel is distributed through department stores. Therefore, the department stores need to assume their roles in sales and try to improve the condition and to train professional buyers. 2. The sales network is concentrated on the five biggest cities such as Seoul, Pusan, Taegu, Taechon, and Kwangju, prompting the need to be diversified. 3, Tke existing distribution forms distribution systems have many irrational factors which are aggravnting the rate of goods in stock. 4. The manufacturing companies do not implement studies on distribution. The companies should try to establish clear concepts on production and distribution on their own for better planning skills. 5. Computerized systems need to manage the procedures ranging from ordering, distribution, sales to inventory.

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  3. [국내논문]   남성 성역할 스트레스와 의복행동과의 상관연구 -서울 남자 대학생을 중심으로-   피인용횟수: 1

    김광경 (대전실업전문대학 ) , 이숙녀 (장안전문대학)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 339 - 346 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The Purpose of this study were; (1) to investigate the relationship between Masculine Gender Role Stress and four aspects of Clothing behavior, (2) to ascertain whether differences exist among demographic variables on Masculine Gender Role Stress and Clothing behavior, (3) to investigate the relationship among the four aspects of Clothing behavior. Masculine Gender Role Stress was assessed by Eisler & Skidmore's Scale. Four aspects of Clothing (Conformity, Satisfaction, Exhibition, Brand Orientation) were assessed by Chung's, Lim's & Lee's, Shim's and Kim's questionnaires. The samples were consisted of 236 male students in Seoul. The statistical analyses of the obtained data included calculation of the Mean, S.D., Correlation, ANOVA and Regression. The Results were as follows; (1) Masculine Gender Role Stress was positively related to conformity, exhibition of Clothing and negatively related to satisfaction of Clothing. (2) There were significant differences among three groups of Major on Clothing behavior. (3) There were significant differences among three groups of locations of high school on Masculine Gender Role Stress. (4) There were significant relationships among each Clothing variables. Positive relationship were found between Exhibition and Brand Orientation of Clothing. Negative relationships existed between (i) Conformity and Satisfaction, Exhibition, Brand Orientation of Clothing, (ii) Satisfaction and Exhibition, Brand Orientation of Clothing.

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  4. [국내논문]   정상인과 신체장애자의 성격특성이 의복행동에 미치는 영향   피인용횟수: 1

    이순화 (성신여자대학교 가정대학 의류직물학과 ) , 이명희 (성신여자대학교 가정대학 의류직물학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 347 - 356 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between personality traits and clothing behavior of the normal and disabled females, and to find out the difference in clothing behavior of the two groups. Questionaires for clothing behavior were chosen from the items which had been used in previous studies, and the items were selected on the basis of Cronbach's Alpha Reliability Coefficient. Clothing behavior was composed of four variables: aesthetics; comfort; modesty; and satisfaction. For measurement of 3 personality traits (emotional stability, sociability, and superiority), a portion of 'Personality Inventory' b) Sangro Lee, Changjin Byeon, and Wuigyo Jin was used. Samples were 286 females in Seoul, of whom 110 were normal high school girls, 86 were norma1 college women, 41 were disabled high school girls, and 49 were disabled college women. The data were analyzed using F-test, F-test, and correlation coefficient. The results of the study were the followings: 1. There were meaningful relationships between personality traits and clothing behavior 1) Stability had negative relations to aesthetics and modesty and positive relation to satisfaction. In the case of the normal, stability had no relation to comfort, but in the case of the disabled, it had positive relation to comfort. 2) The sociability had positive relations to aesthetics and satisfaction. 3) The superiority had negative relation to modesty, it had positive relation to satisfaction. The superiority of the normal had negative relation to comfort, whereas the superiority of the disabled had positive relation to comfort. 2. There was a difference in the clothing aesthetics between the normal and the disabled. 3. In case of the normal, college women regarded comfort less important than high school girls. In case of the disabled, college women regarded comfort more important than high school girls. 4. In upper class, there was no difference on the clothing comfort between the normal and the disabled. But there was difference on comfort between the normal and the disabled in low class.

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  5. [국내논문]   레이온 직물의 Wet-Fixation에 의한 DP가공에 관한 연구(II) -처리온도 및 시간의 영향-  

    허윤숙 (연세대학교 가정대학 의생활학과 ) , 김은애 (연세대학교 가정대학 의생활학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 357 - 369 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of treatment temperature and time on the, of easy-care and strength properties of the wet fixation processed rayon fabrics. Viscose rayon fabrics were treated with mixed resins of melamine formaldehyde (MF) and DMDHEU by one bath and two bath wet fixation processes. The MF/DMDHEU mixed resin concentrations were 50/100, 50/150, 100/100 and 100/150(g/1). Magnasium chloride was used as a catalyst. The wet fixation conditions were 24hrs at room temperature,20 mins at $75^{\circ}C$ and 5 mins at $105^{\circ}C$ Wet fixation processed fabrics did not show the difference in the resin add-one, DP ratings and wrinkle recovery angles by the different treatment temperatures and times. DP ratings were in the order of $105^{\circ}C>75^{\circ}C>room$ temp, in one bath and two bath wet fixation. Breaking and tearing strength of one bath processed fabrics showed in the order of $75^{\circ}C>room\;temp>105^{\circ}C$ The breaking strength of two bath processed fabrics showed in the order of $105^{\circ}C>75^{\circ}C>room$ temp. Tearing strength showed in the order of $75^{\circ}c>105^{\circ}C>room$ temp. Abrasion resistances were in the order of $75^{\circ}C>105^{\circ}C>room$ temp. in one bath and two bath processes.

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  6. [국내논문]   천연염료에 관한 연구(II) -자근색소에 의한 견섬유염색 -   피인용횟수: 1

    조경래 (부산여자대학 의류학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 370 - 379 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    In previous paper, the optical behavior of coloring matter of Cromwell under several conditions were investigated. In this paper, the fading behavior of color solution extracted from Growell by methanol, dyeing properties of this color on the silk fibers in water and methanol, the three property of color of dyed silk fabrics, and fading behavior of dyed silk fabrics with Cromwell color under light and washing were discussed.

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    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  7. [국내논문]   Permanent Pleats 가공이 산성염료로 염색된 모직물의 색변화에 미치는 영향  

    유화숙 (연세대학교 가정대학 의생활학과 ) , 김은애 (연세대학교 가정대학 의생활학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 380 - 387 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The Purpose of this study was to investigate the color changes of acid dyed wool fabrics after imparting permanent pleats with si-ro-set finish. Monoethanolamine sulfite was used as a reducing agent. Color changes were determined by measuring CIELAB values after treating the dyed fabrics with various setting temperatures, times and concentrations of MEAS. Setting temperature affected the color changes: in the order of $150^{\circ}C>130^{\circ}C>170^{\circ}C$ Setting time had a tendency to increase the color change. As the concentration of MEAS increased, $\delta$ E was increased. Azo dye was more affected than anthraquinone dye by MEAS treatment. Color changes were mainly due to $\delta$ L.

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  8. [국내논문]   스커트의 열특성에 관한 연구   피인용횟수: 2

    최혜선 (이화여자대학교 가정과학대학 의류직물학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 388 - 399 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of garment design, fabric type and the presence of lining on the thermal insulation value $(I_{cle}\;and\;I{cl})$ and clothing area factor $(f_{cl})$ of skirts. A standing, electrically heated thermal maninkin was used to measure the insultation value of eighty skirts-five skirt styles with eight different fabrics, with and without lining. The air temperature of the chamber was set at $22.2^{\circ}C{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ , air velocity was limited to less than 0.1 m/s, and relative humidity was approximately $50\%$ . The results are as follows: 1) The Ic, values of gathered skirt and flared skirt, which had high $f_{cl}$ values, were significantly higher than those of other skirts, though the highest $I_{cle}$ value among five styles wer pegged skirt. 2) Insulation values of various skirts were more relevant with physical properties such as thickness, air permeability, and thermal transmission of the materials rather than fiber content. 3) The addition of lining made significant difference in the insulation values of skirts and the differences of gathered and flared skirt were significantly higher than those of othere types of skirts.

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  9. [국내논문]   염화코발트법을 이용한 직물의 동적 수분전달에 대한 연구  

    홍경희 (충남대학교 가정대학 의류학과 ) , 김은숙 (충남대학교 가정대학 의류학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 400 - 411 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    Moisture related properties of fabrics in dynamic modes are considered to be important in the judgement of the subjective comfort characteristics of clothing fabrics. In the current study, an attempt to improve the cobaltous chloride test method was made which has been known as a convenient screening test for dynamic surface wetness. The color changes of cobaltous chloride treated fabrics on the simulated sweating skin were calibrated against standard color strips. The standard color strips were made of all typs of test fabrics and installed inside of the test tubes containing a series of saturated salt solutions, which gives more quantitative informations on dynamic moisture transfer Influences of fiber types and finishes on dynamic moisture transfer in textiles were studied using a single layer of fabric samples. Fiber types included $100\%$ cotton, C/P 50/50, C/P 35/65. Durable press and soil release finished cotton and C/P 50/50 fabrics were also included. There were significant fiber effects on the dynamic moisture transfer. The order of time taken to reach to the specified $\%$ RH was C/P 35/65 $100\%$ cotton fabrics. It was possible to detect significant finish effects by increasing the concentrations of cobaltous chloride solutions. The order of time taken to reach to the specified $\%$ R.H was durable press $100\%$ cotton, C/P 50/50, C/P 35/65 and $100\%$ PET were placed at the inner side of the outer layer and tested. It was shown that cobaltous chloride treated $100\%$ cotton fabirc was easier to detect color changes than C/P blend fabic in the double layer experiments. By placing test sample under the cobaltous chloride treated cotton fabrics, it was able to detect the differences among the test samples, some of which were known to be difficult in padding with cobaltous chloride solutions. Besides, the double layer method would provide with the broader application of the cobaltous chloride method in !uture, since it is possible to test the dynamic moisture transfer of clothing as worn.

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  10. [국내논문]   선호디자인 감각에 따른 의복구매자 유형과 관련된 생활양식 특성에 관한 연구(II) -의복구매자 유형과 스타일 선호 및 구매와의 관련성을 중심으로-   피인용횟수: 2

    김영인 (연세대학교 가정대학 의생활학과)
    한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles v.13 no.4 ,pp. 412 - 426 , 1989 , 1225-1151 ,

    초록

    This study investigated the relationship of consumer type to perferred and purchased Styles by clothing, life style, demographic, and information variables. Four consumer types were identified in study 1 (Kim, 1988). There were the casual, mannish, elegant, and feminine types. The present study used 20 line drawings representing the styles of summer '87 Data were obtained from questionnaires completed by 624 consumers $15\~69$ years of age living in Seoul, and analyzed by multiple discriminant analysis, and CROSSTABS. Descriptive profiles of the four categories were developed differently by clothing, life style and demographic characteristics. Casual and elegant types were preferred by middle-aged and married women, while mannish and feminine types were preferred by unmarried and younger women. The preferred design types of these groups were related more to preferences for clothing styles than purchased styles. All variables except occupation contributed to discriminate purchased styles.

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