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저널/프로시딩 상세정보

권호별목차 / 소장처보기

H : 소장처정보

T : 목차정보

服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 20건

  1. [국내논문]   유물실측을 통한 여자저고리의 치수연구  

    유송옥 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 21 - 30 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    Chogori the basic upper garment of korea costume occupies an important role in tra-ditional dressing and continues to be in use to the present days. Of course there has been changes in the length and line of Chogori with the flow of time based on the Ancient Yoo. This is a study of the 14 parts of Chgori based on statistical analysis by computing the practical measuements. Here the statistical analysis is a objective and quantitative of the stylistic changes in Chogori with time. In this study from the data the Mean and Standard deviation has been evaluated and periodic change is shown by graph to test the periodic change T-test Regressional analysis Index analysis has been used. The results are as follows: 1. The length of clothing has changed with time except the sleeve length. Here the length of clothing means all the other measurements ex-cept the sleeve Thus while the measurements of sleeve length has been uniquely unchanged the other measurements have influenced each other. 2. Generally the form of Chogori had the tendency towards smallness in the 19th cen-tury. But it tended to get larger in the 20th century. 3. Compared to other periods the mode of 19th and 20th century Chogori was widely ac-cepted as the Standard deviation of that period was very narrow. 4. The results seen from the regressional analysis of the Cho-sun period woman's Chogori satisfy the t-value and R-squared and thus support the regression formula presump-tion. 5. From the index analysis it is revealed that with decrease in the armhole measurement sleeve measurement and neckband; relatively same decrease in the wrist measurement; and very marked decrease in the sideline measurement.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

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  2. [국내논문]   헌종왕후 칠순 신찬 10곡도병과 신축신찬의궤에 나타난 복식연구  

    유송옥 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 31 - 43 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  3. [국내논문]   샤넬의 커스튬 주어리에 관한 연구   피인용횟수: 2

    유송옥 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 45 - 56 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between Chanel design and her Costume jewelry in 1920's-1930's through documentary studies. According to the study the result was as follows: 1. Chanel's esthetic in the field of Fashion Design bore the double stamp of "elegance" and 'simplicity' 2. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewelry. Chanel's great innovation was that she let 'fake' jewels always keep the intrinsic value of 'real' ones. 3. The simplicity of her perfectly tailored suit was Paradoxically overwhelmed by a fan-tastic array of jewels. The relationhship be-tween Chanel design and her costume jewelry was not able to be seperated. Chanel was a fashion leader fifty years ago and the name "Chanel" will be at the forefornt of fashon fifty years from now. The image of quality will always remain the same in the futures.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  4. [국내논문]   Amish의 종교관과 의복  

    박금주 (웅진전문대학 여성교양과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 57 - 68 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to understand the effects of religion on Amish costumes. For this study I twice visited Amish village in Lancaster Pennsylvania U.S,A in July 1993 and August 1996. The methods of study directed direct observation and literature re-search. The results of this study were as follows: The Amish was livid practically by strict princi- ples of simplicity diligence piety and mutual cooperation. The Amish behavioral code of laws known as ordnung dictated appropriate dress agricultual methods and a routine for daily life. The Amish costumes originated with the 17th century Puritans traditional apparel the European farmer and the clothing style of 19th century Americal,. Amish costumes was fastened with hooks and eyes instead of decorative buttons a diret influence of Puritanism does and did non con-tain ornamental outer pockets. This distinctively simple costumes served as a boundary outsiders to and as a direct ex-pression of their faith. An Amish doll had neither facial features nor fingers and toes as described in scripture "You do not become corrupt and make for yourselves an idol an image of any shape whether formed like a man or a women or like any animal on earth or any bird that flies in the air or like any creature that moves along the ground or any fish in the waters below" In this way Amish costumes was affected by their religion and faith.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  5. [국내논문]   청소년 잡지에 나타난 의류광고의 사회적 의미 변화에 관한 연구 - 의류광고의 시각적 소구유형 및 소비가치에 관한 연구-   피인용횟수: 4

    황선진 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 69 - 82 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to investgate the social meaning and consumption values expressed on apparel advertisements In Teena-ger's magazines from 1976 to 1996. The results of this study were as follows. 1. As the number of the model in apparel advertisements was more than two people it was closely related to conformity and peer ac-ceptance of adolecent's developmental task. Also There were increasing number of foreign models and attractive and famous signers and talents. 2. The trend of appeals showed changing time and society. Since 1990 post-modern ap-proach has increased whereas rational and emotional approach were dominated in 1970s and 1980s. 3, The major consumption values in apparel advertisements were social value emotional value. From 1990 there were variety in consumption values related to adolescent's ap-parel advertisements. This results represented the possibility that apparel advertisements in adolescent's maga-zines not only mirror but mold change of con-sumption values and life style in adolescent. Especially to understand and predict the new generation in Korea educators and practi-tioners in Junior Fashion Market must try to study the current adolescent's life style and consumption values systematically.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  6. [국내논문]   해방이후 한국여성 화장변천 및 특성에 관한 연구 - 1945~1995를 중심으로 -  

    김희숙 (동주여자전문대학 피부미용과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 83 - 100 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th Korean women's make-up the result of the study as follows: In the period 1920's 1. The drastic social changes such as civilzation and revolution together with the in troduction of western culture affected make-up and clothes. New women and high school girls wore the modified costume make-up hair style But general public women keep to traditional skin care style and white skin colour was popular. 2. In recent year after 1960's economic de-velopment the women's social status were pormoted after 1970's various colour em-phasize lip eye there by resulting in remark-able modification in the Korean women's apperance. In those days there was the large cosmetic producst of vavious colour 3. The result of this study indicated that the value of recognize the importance of total fashion is the harmonization of clothes and make-up 4. It was also suggested Korean beauty in the future should be achieved in accordance with tradition and modern sense.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  7. [국내논문]   한국의 무속복식 연구 - 서울굿 무복을 중심으로 -  

    유효순 (혜전전문대학 의상디자인과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 101 - 116 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study is to survey the system of the Korean Shaman's costume and its formative character and to find out the symbolic meaning of it. This study focuses on a shaman's costume in Seoul-Gut Seoul-Gut belongs to 'Gangsin-mu' Therefore a shaman's costumes in Seoul-Gut remains even today. Korean shamanistic ritual is gut. Its basic structure generally consists of 12 'Geori(a process is made up Gut)' In Gangsin-mu a shaman changes his/her spirit's costumes in each Geori so that a shaman's costumes means the spirit. The shaman's costumes of 12-Geori in Seoul-Gut has only 5 or 6 kinds be-cause shamans wear the same costume when the spirit's characters are similar with each other. Therefore shaman's costumes in Seoul-Gut are consistsof Poungsangbok pulsajang-sam cjulik Kugunbok Monduri and Wonsam There are some differences between modern shaman's costumes in Seoul-Gut and traditional costume in the basic pattern and the wearing method,. Modern shaman's costumes in Seoul-Gut has become simpler in the basic pattern and more gergeous in the color or adornment and more various in the kinds of shaman's costume than that of Yi Dynasty. This tendency in modern shaman's costumes reflects modernized folk's viewpoint in dress. which thinks highly of their individuality and function and variety in it. Korean shaman's costumes means the extintion of the earthly world and symbolizes the holy symbolizes the holy symbolizes the spirits character, Ying Yang Theory and represents shaman's wishes. The wishes are the desire of prefection and stability in this world the desire of ideal love and rebirth and the desire of lofty life in this world.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  8. [국내논문]   우리나라 남성복 광고의 변화와 남성복 정장 자켓의 디자인요소 변화에 관한연구 - 1970~1990년대 잡지의 내용분석 -  

    변유선 (혜전전문대학교 의상디장인과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 117 - 130 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The purpose of this study were to identify the design elements and the changing flow of advertisement from 1970's to 1990's by using content analysis of men's magazines. Finding were as followed; First through the analysis of men's wear advertisement in magazine it was found that the closer to 1990's the more various men's wear styles and backgrounds were advertized. These were more image oriented than product oriented. Since 1980 the advertisement about the licenced and the imported brands have been increased and the serial advertisement has shown more fre-quently than the 1-page advertisement since 1990's ; Second two piece suit was dominated in men's wear during 1970's and 1980's From 1990's this style was decresed in stead combi suit was increased. In 1970's the X silhouette was infashion and the y and the X silhouette was in fashion and the y and X sillhouette were increased during 1980's . The H silhouette was dominated in 1990's The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's. The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's The solid pattern was the main flow in men's wear however the stripes and the the check patterns were added in 1990's Third single breasted jacket style with two buttons and tailored collar was in fashion during 1970's . The length of the v-zone was shorter than half at this time however it was lengthened in 1980's . Also the the length of the jacket was lengthened. In 1990's the double breasted jacket style and two buttons were increased. The length of the v-zone and jacket were also lengthened.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  9. [국내논문]   휴처리스트 남성복 선언문과 그에 대한 디자인  

    유송옥 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 131 - 147 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing " The Foundation and Manifestos of Futurism" Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in mani-festos on clothes. It was propagated in con-summate Futurist style through the written manifestos. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Cloth-ing in 1914 they believed continual renual of our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much more simple than yesterday's clothes. The oppositions of the type between yesterday's clothes and today's clothes are mournful=play-ful melancolic-cheerful grey-colorful tradi-tional-emphemeral. Futurist men's clothing is aggressive agile dynamic simple and confor-table hygienic gay luminous volatile asym-metric ephemeral and variable. In general the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. They made dynamic patterns in textile design and asymmetric geometric cuts in pattern making. They suggested an unconventional matetials and strong bright colors and modificanti. These elements pointed the way to a shim-mering exuberant future.

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    회원님의 원문열람 권한에 따라 열람이 불가능 할 수 있으며 권한이 없는 경우 해당 사이트의 정책에 따라 회원가입 및 유료구매가 필요할 수 있습니다.이동하는 사이트에서의 모든 정보이용은 NDSL과 무관합니다.

    NDSL에서는 해당 원문을 복사서비스하고 있습니다. 아래의 원문복사신청 또는 장바구니담기를 통하여 원문복사서비스 이용이 가능합니다.

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  10. [국내논문]   한국개화기 여성복식의 변천요인 - 집단복식을 중심으로 -  

    조효순 (명지대학교 생활과학부 대학원)
    服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume v.32 ,pp. 149 - 162 , 1997 , 1229-6880 ,

    초록

    In this paper it was observed that the influences of social environment that had been saturated by the modern awareness and west-ern culture effected largely on clothing. Also it was studied how and by what en-vironmental factors the costume during the enlightening period was accepted and devel-oped in Korea relative to social cultural en-vironment. In this research the emphasis was placed on the process of changing to western clothing especially the influence of Group Clothing on the general women's clothing. Therefore the types of group clothing and its influences were studied. in this study the types of group clothing recalled were modern women's clothing mission-ary women's clothing professional women's such as nurse uniforms school girls' uniforms and the invention of women's sports wear. And lastly it was searched for the direction of developent in apparels. From the above mentioned we can conclude that the clothing is inseparable from social and cultural Invironments and foreign affairs of politics at the time. Also it is considered that the types of group styles were the necessary happenings in the early stage of modern so-ciety. Because of historical situation in Korea the western clothing style had taken place in a short period of time. however Korean women's clothing which had been centerred around group clothing was considered to have changed from Korean traditional costume to western clothing by rational decisions of modern awareness in-stead of sudden change from traditional clothing to western clothing by indiscrete acceptance of western culture.

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